This Year The V&A Dundee Opened The Kimono: Kyoto To Catwalk, An Exhibition Exploring The Fascinating Story Of The Significance, Appeal And Influence Of This Iconic Garment.

The first significant kimono exhibition in Europe opened to the public at V&A Dundee on Saturday, May 4.

Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk traces the kimono’s influence from 17th-century Japan to contemporary cutting-edge couture and street fashion worldwide, showcasing the kimono as an iconic piece of clothing and a dynamic, ever-evolving icon of fashion.

Rare kimonos from the 17th and 18th centuries are on show in the exhibition next to contemporary pieces by Alexander McQueen, Yohji Yamamoto, and Issey Miyake. A new generation of modern designers and stylists also examines the kimono’s recent resurgence on Japanese streets.

The kimono, widely recognised as the pinnacle of Japanese culture, is both fascinatedly viewed abroad and held in high regard within the nation as a sign of national identity. The kimono is frequently seen as a straightforward, classic clothing because of its symbolic significance and the fact that its fundamental design has not changed throughout the ages. This notion is refuted by Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk, which shows how the kimono has always been a dynamic piece of fashionable clothing that has undergone constant restyles throughout its history, influencing everything from rock stars and Star Wars to evening wear and festival fashion.

A kimono made by Living National Treasure Kunihiko Moriguchi, modern pieces from L’Wren Scott’s 2014 collection, and a kimono worn at home by Queen lead singer Freddie Mercury are among the exhibition’s highlights. Fashion designers get inspiration from the kimono, as demonstrated by the designs of Yves Saint Laurent, Rei Kawakubo, and John Galliano. The show features paintings, prints, films, dress accessories, and other items that lend context to the interesting tale of the kimono’s style, popularity, and influence.

Three-quarters of the over 300 pieces on display, including a specifically produced kimono for the exhibition, are taken from the V&A’s collections, with the remaining pieces kindly loaned by museums and private collectors in Britain, Europe, America, and Japan.

This is the last chance to view these unique pieces together at the V&A Dundee location of the Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk international tour, which runs from May 4 through January 5, 2025.

The three sections of the show start in the middle of the 17th century, when Japan saw the emergence of a flourishing fashion culture. Leading actresses and well-known courtesans defined the trends of the day, but the more affluent merchant classes desired the newest looks to show off their riches, confidence, and taste. The kimono’s straightforward design brought attention to the surface, enabling the application of advanced techniques to create opulent designs.

The exhibition’s first section, “Kimono In Japan,” delves into these designs and sheds insight on a fashion-conscious society that is not too unlike from our own, where the need for the newest style was fostered by a celebrity cult and supported by producers, retailers, and publishers. When kimonos were originally brought to Europe in the middle of the 17th century, they instantly changed fashion trends there. Additionally, foreign textiles were introduced to Japan and used to create kimonos. Rare artefacts from this early era of cultural interchange are on show to highlight the fluid fashion link between East and West that emerged from the global commerce network. These artefacts include kimonos manufactured in India from chintz and French brocade and clothing made in Japan for the Dutch.

“Kimono Transformed” demonstrates how kimonos have remained a source of inspiration for fashion designers worldwide. The designs by Thom Browne, Duro Olowu, and Yohji Yamamoto demonstrate how a garment can be translated and changed. The kimono is the perfect outfit for theatre and movies because of its ageless and international appeal. On show are Oscar-winning costumes from Memoirs of a Geisha and the costume worn by actor Toshirō Mifune in Sanjūrō, the movie that George Lucas claims inspired the Star Wars costumes. In addition, kimono wear is becoming more and more popular in Japan. In addition, kimono wear is becoming more and more popular in Japan. Hiroko Takahashi aims to unite art and fashion, Jōtarō Saitō creates kimono couture for the runway, while small, independent studios like Rumi Rock and Modern Antenna produce more relaxed looks.

Anna Jackson, curator of Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk, said, “Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the aesthetic, social and sartorial importance of the kimono. This iconic garment is generally viewed as a timeless and traditional costume. We counter that conception by showing that kimono have always been highly dynamic garments, at the heart of a fashion culture that has thrived in Japan since the 1660s. The exhibition reveals how kimono fashion has been translated across cultural and geographic boundaries and has had a major impact on global dress styles for nearly 400 years.”

Kirsty Hassard, V&A Dundee curator, said, “A lot of the clothes we wear today are indirectly inspired by kimono in the way that it changed the silhouettes designers were crafting, particularly in the 20th century. We hope visitors will enjoy gaining insight into the importance the kimono has had on global fashion, and the unique experience of seeing the Kimono exhibition within the Japanese-Scottish inspired architecture of V&A Dundee on the final stop of its international tour.”

Leonie Bell, Director of V&A Dundee, said, “V&A Dundee by the banks of the Tay is a Scottish-Japanese building and it sets the stage perfectly for Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk. Architect Kengo Kuma took inspiration for the V&A Dundee building from the rocky cliffs of eastern Scotland’s coastline, the maritime heritage of Dundee, and places of worship in ancient Japan. “Opening Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk at V&A Dundee celebrates kimono’s enduring place in fashion design history and contemporary culture, whilst also offering us an opportunity to acknowledge and celebrate Scottish-Japanese cultural bonds, spanning hundreds of years and influencing art, design, fashion and architecture to engineering, food, gardens, film, animation, music and more.”

Throughout the year, V&A Dundee is hosting a number of events that are sparked by the exhibition. These events include a free Educators Preview on May 16; a free Curators Talk on June 7; and 30 days of free family workshops that are centred around Japanese pop culture and involve playing with toys, comic books, origami, and video games every day from July 6 to August 4, which are school holiday weekends.

To go along with the show, a Japanese-inspired Afternoon Tea will also be introduced on Saturday, May 4. The classic afternoon tea menu at Tatha Bar & Kitchen at V&A Dundee has been combined with Japanese-inspired flavours, such as matcha and vanilla cake, miso caramel and white chocolate dessert and a variety of savoury snacks including crispy fried kataifi prawns and miso soup.

The Shop at V&A Dundee sells vintage kimono jackets in addition to brand-new designs made in partnership with Scottish designers Hayley Scanlan and Claire McVinnie. In addition, fashion designer Hayley Scanlan remade her best-selling shoulder bag using a Japanese-inspired fabric. Claire McVinnie used traditional washi paper from chiyogami silk screen to create a unique line of laser-cut wooden fan brooches. The V&A Dundee shop also sells the official Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk book, written by Anna Jackson and Josephine Rout and containing over 250 pictures.

If you’re planning to visit the captivating “Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk” exhibit at the V&A Dundee, ensure a comfortable and convenient stay by booking a serviced apartment with 8th Line Property. Our serviced apartments offer the perfect blend of modern amenities and homely comfort, providing an ideal base for your cultural exploration. Located within easy reach of the V&A Dundee, 8th Line Property’s accommodations ensure you can immerse yourself in the rich history and intricate artistry of the kimono exhibit, while also enjoying the vibrant atmosphere and scenic beauty of Dundee. Make your visit unforgettable with the luxurious and hassle-free accommodation options from 8th Line Property.